Up until I made this console table for my entryway, I had been dumping my mail, keys, and purse on my not so large dining table. Console tables can be pricey – anywhere between $300 to $1500 when I was looking at places like west elm or Crate&Barrel. So I decided to design my own. This table was really fun to make, and all the materials cost me less than $63! All you need is a trip to Home Depot and some basic geometry.
- 1 – 48″ x 16″ laminated spruce board ($11.97)
- 5 – 1/2″ x 5 ft Type L copper tubes ($6.80 each)
- 8 – 1/2″ 90 degree copper elbows ($4.35 for a pack of 10)
- 6 – 1/2″ copper tees ($8.80 for a pack of 10)
- 4 – 1/2″ copper tube straps ($2.39 for a pack of 5)
- 8 – #8 x 5/8″ Philips wood screws ($1.18 for a pack of 12)
Tools/other things you need:
- Tube cutter
- Philips screwdriver
- Super glue
- Some kind of finish – I bought Danish oil, natural color
- To make the sides, cut four 30″ pieces (vertical legs) and eight 6″ pieces (horizontal components). Connect two 6″ pieces together with a tee (do this 4x), then connect the ends of those pieces to the vertical legs using elbows to make two 12″x30″ rectangles (picture left).
- For the diagonals, cut one 53 1/4″ piece (long diagonal) and two 24 13/16″ pieces (short diagonals). Partition the long diagonal into two 16 15/16″ pieces and one 19 3/8″ piece. Connect these three pieces together with 2 tees such that the 19 3/8″ piece is in the middle. Connect the short diagonals such that they are perpendicular to the long diagonal using the tees on the long diagonal. Then connect the rectangular sides to the diagonal pieces using the tees at the centers of the rectangles (picture center).
- Connect the shorter sides of the rectangles to the spruce board using the tube straps and two wood screws per strap (picture right).
- Finally, go back and super glue pipes where they connect at tees and elbows. Flip it over, and there’s your table!
I still have to finish the wood, but that’ll be for another weekend! I’m waiting for a day that’s warm, sunny and dry.
- The diagonal pipes might look decorative but they’re also practical. They provide lateral stability such that the table doesn’t give when you push it from either side. I got the idea from cross bracing in buildings.
- Overall dimensions of the table: 48″w x 16″d x 31″h. If you have a different size board/tabletop and want to make a similar-looking table with different dimensions, here’s how you can find the diagonal lengths you need to cut:Where
- “h” and “w” are the height and width, respectively, of your choosing
- “d” is the long diagonal
- “b” is the short diagonal, and
- “a” corresponds to the 16 15/16″ pieces from Step 2 (All this is is the Pythagorean theorem and the ratios of corresponding sides of similar triangles per AA similarity postulate).
- Since my board was 48″ wide x 16 deep, I used a width of 44″ and a depth of 12″ to give me enough space along the edge of board to screw the copper tube straps in.
- You can probably use Type M copper tubes, but I decided to go with Type L tubes because happened to be cheaper when I went to go buy them and also because they have thicker walls compared to Type M tubes and I figured that would make for a sturdier table. But keep in mind, thicker walls take longer to cut.
- You can also buy tubes by 10 ft instead of by 5 ft for a cheaper per foot price, but I just didn’t think my car would fit 10 ft of pipe
- I had never cut pipes before this, but it’s really easy and straight forward to use a tube cutter. There are a bunch of videos on YouTube that teach you how.